Category Archives: Fishing

Alaska Inside Passage ~ September 6 – 13, 2014

Although Trey and I wanted to see Alaska, it was not on our original wish list of sites and landmarks to visit during our six-month journey. Neither recall why we had not considered Alaska, nor do we remember how we came to realize it was doable. Since we’d booked the cruise only a month prior, the inspiration probably came from one of the many bikers and fellow travelers we encountered during our stay in the Black Hills of South Dakota.

Our “we will figure it out” mentality is all about being open to options and opportunities. As I’ve written elsewhere, “It’s about having faith… that we will know which paths to take as we approach the many crossroads of our journey.”

ALASKAN CRUISE

First Sunset of our Alaskan Cruise
First Sunset of our Alaskan Cruise

“ It’s the beauty that thrills me with wonder,
It’s the stillness that fills me with peace.”
                                                                The Spell of the Yukon, Robert W. Service

Truth is of the highest importance to me. In fact, my book’s subtitle is Truth is Sacred. So here’s a serving of truth about non-stop travel that may not be disclosed or properly portrayed in travel blogs, including this one:

It isn’t necessarily glamorous; it can be exhausting; it’s not conducive to practicing self-care; and immune systems get weary.

Mart not feeling too good

Since leaving Austin more than three months prior, I had already experienced two bouts of food poisoning. First, from sketchy pigs ‘n blankets in Atlantic City, and then from a salad in Ottawa. The latter round was especially ugly, but nowhere as odious as the 38 hours I endured in our cabin’s miniature bathroom…I’ll spare you further details, just be assured it was the opposite of glamorous.

Westerdam

Being a seven-day cruise, I was able to rebound and enjoy most of the amazing scenery…

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Juneau, Alaska

Juneau

Alaska’s Capital, Juneau is a bustling tourist and government hub relative to the other communities we visited.

JuneauCapitalBldg
Alaska’s (unremarkable, yet practical) Capitol Building

The path from the cruise port to the capitol building is a gauntlet of high-end jewelry stores and low-end souvenir vendors.

Juneau2
Our floating hotel blends in with downtown Juneau buildings

Our shopping goals included lunch and one item, a corkscrew to evade the cruise line’s corkage fee. We found both at the Red Dog Saloon. (Note, upon initial embarking, most cruise lines allow each guests (21+) to carry on one bottle of unopened wine. Don’t forget the corkscrew!)

Glacier Bay National Park

Glacier Bay, Alaska (2)

Glacier Bay was the highlight of Trey’s Alaskan scenic experience. Due to the aforementioned illness, I was officially quarantined in the cabin for the duration of our time in Glacier Bay.

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Though weak and fog-headed, I loved Trey’s regular and enthusiastic updates of the 65-mile voyage up Glacier Bay into Tarr Inlet. At some point, the ship was boarded by National Park Rangers to help with navigation into the bay’s narrow inlets and conduct informational discussions as we cruised past islands, wildlife, and glacial rivers.

Margerie Glacier (2)
Margerie Glacier

Travel into John Hopkins Inlet was not on the day’s itinerary, but the captain announced he’d been granted permission to enter the inlet due clear weather and decreased ice floes.

 

Through the photos Trey captured and his excitement in describing the day, I experienced it with him. It was absolutely beautiful!

 

 

Sitka, Alaska

Sitka’s city center sits on Baranov Island.

Sitka Sound
Sitka Sound

Our ship docked among the numerous tiny islands dotting Sitka Sound, and disembarking was done via a ship’s tender – a new transportation experience for us.

Tender unloading passengers
Tender unloading passengers

A hard working fishing community, Sitka was closer to our expectations of an Alaskan city than Juneau…

Sitka Skyline

less touristy, with a focus on its people and history. For me, it was like I had finally arrived in true Alaska.Arriving in Sitka

Originally the site of Tlingit Village, Sitka’s roots are prominently displayed throughout. Totems align a walking path in Sitka National Historic Park, and a Russian Orthodox Church is the focal point of Lincoln Street, the city’s main street.

Sitka

With limited time, and even less energy on my part, we were not able to explore beautiful Sitka as we would have liked. Yet, we were there long enough to discern it as a unique community full of grit, charm, and justified pride.

 

Rockwell Lighthouse
Rockwell Lighthouse, Sitka

Ketchikan, Alaska

Ketchikan Harbor
Ketchikan Harbor

Ketchikan Sign

Ketchikan

I immediately recognized Ketchikan from photographs my parents had taken decades before. Quaint, colorful, and picturesque. Creek Street, and its elevated walk lined with vibrant shops perched above Ketchikan Creek, is quintessential Alaska.

Ketchikan Shops

We followed other tourists across wooden planks, in and out of shops, and around bends of the creek where an unimaginable number of salmon were making their way upstream.

Ketchikan Creek

Continuing beyond the walkway’s end, we found a trail leading up to and through a thicket of firs…

Trail above creek walkway

eventually emerging where the creek flattened and opened into a larger pool. Spawning salmon provided the effects of churning currents and rapids within the pool – a truly wondrous display.

With much amusement, we watched a beaver disguise himself with a palm leaf as he snuck into the pool for lunch.

Ketchikan Beaver

Rather than backtrack, we opted to forge our own path back to the cruise ship, and on the way, discovered totems, Ketchikan’s City Park…

 

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and the Totem Heritage Center, a sanctuary of 19th century Red Cedar totems rescued from neighboring uninhabited Tlingit and Haidi village sites.

Preserved Totems
Chief Johnson’s original totem is in the foreground

Heritage Center

The center was established in 1976 to prevent further erosion and destruction of the totems.

Butchart Gardens, Victoria, BC

After sailing five hours from Ketchikan, we docked in Victoria, British Columbia. We were happy to be back, and chose to spend our time on an evening excursion to Butchart Gardens.

Butchart Gardens Sunken Garden
Butchart Gardens Sunken Garden

Truly stunning, Butchart Gardens is a must see. The vision of a cement baron’s wife, its expansive gardens stretch across 55 acres in and around the site of a former quarry, the rock source for the cement that helped to construct Victoria and British Columbia.

Garden Entrance

Arriving at sunset, our visit was muted by the lack of daylight, but enhanced by fantastic light shows and special effects lighting that illuminated spectacular blooms.

 

Daytime or nighttime tour? I cannot say which is better, having not experienced the former. I think perhaps they’re just very different, and cannot be compared.

Though restricted on time, we managed to stroll through each section, starting with the sunken garden, through the rose garden, and finishing in the Italian garden.

 

Giant Redwood
Sequoia Tree, planted from a seedling in 1934

It’s a good thing we didn’t linger much longer, as the shuttle bus driver had miscounted heads and was readying to head back to the cruise port.

Disembarkment in Seattle began the next morning, a Saturday, at 7:00 a.m. Having endured long lines during initial boarding, we resolved to pay for an early disembarkment time.

Numerous tasks awaited, including dirty laundry, returning a borrowed formal dress (required for some cruise dinners), and retrieving our bicycles and camping gear from storage.

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It was nearing 2pm when we purchased tickets for the next ferry crossing to Bainbridge Island, leaving just enough time to walk next door and grab some fish n’ chips at Ivan’s Acres of Clams. Then it was…

Bainbridge Island
Bainbridge Island

on the road again…

More pics..

Ketchikan Otter
Ketchikan Otter

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City Park, Ketchikan
Ketchikan City Park

 

Washington, D.C. & Chesapeake Bay ~ June 17-23

We traveled from Asheville, North Carolina to Washington D.C. via Charlottesville, Virginia, specifically to stop in on friend of my parents from when I was a child and she a young woman going to college in Wichita Falls.  We had a wonderful evening catching up and she was kind enough to indulge me with stories of her time with my parents.

Charlottesville, VA
Charlottesville, VA

We arrived in D.C. the next day in time for rush hour, but not too late to enjoy a simple evening visiting with my sister who hosted us for the week.  Her and her husband’s apartment is very conveniently located to the Smithsonian museums and national monuments, so on our first full day, we opted to use our bicycles instead of dealing with traffic and parking.

Early Congressional meeting area when the capitol would get to hot
Early Congressional meeting area when the capitol would get too hot

After a quick ride through the Capitol grounds, we headed to the National Botanical Garden, but did not stay there long as it was the hottest day of the year for D.C. and botanical gardens aren’t the best places to cool off.

Patriotic bloom in the National Botanical garden
Patriotic bloom in the National Botanical garden

The next stop was a short ride to the National Gallery of Art.  We locked our bikes on the rack located near the entrance to the west gallery, which houses the older more traditional pieces, planning to spend an hour and a half there before grabbing some lunch and moving onto the contemporary galleries in the east building.

New Acquisition -  Vincent van Gogh, Green Wheat Fields, Auvers, 1890
New Acquisition – Vincent van Gogh, Green Wheat Fields, Auvers, 1890

The beauty of the art took over us immediately and we completely lost ourselves in the worlds and times of Monet, Van Gogh, Renoir and Pissarro.

Only da Vinci in the U.S. - Leonardo da Vinci's Ginevra de' Benci 1474-1478
Only da Vinci in the U.S. – Leonardo da Vinci’s Ginevra de’ Benci 1474-1478

Three hours later, the hunger pangs in our stomachs demanded our attention back to the present, so we headed out of the museum with the intention to find a nearby diner or deli.  Those plans quickly changed when we arrived at the bike rack to find only one bike – there was no trace of Trey’s.  We got the attention of a security guard standing nearby who escorted us back into the museum to file a report.

On the upside, we did get to walk through the gallery’s basement on our way to the security office and see the large art crates being unloaded in the receiving area.  Plus, the evening ended well with our first of many planned ballpark stops…

Nationals Park - Nationals vs Astros, June 18th
Nationals Park – Nationals vs Astros, June 18th

at least it ended well for the Nationals who beat Trey’s Astros 6-5. (It was a rough day for Trey.)

National Museum of the Marine Corps

The old and the new -- two veterans in foreground with groups of young Marines on both sides
The old and the new — two veterans in foreground with groups of young Marines on both sides

My sister had previously visited the Marine Corp museum and relayed her positive experience.  She knew we would enjoy it, especially the exhibit related to drill instructors. Our father, who enlisted in the Marine Corp when he was 17 and was a veteran of World War II and Korea, had been a drill instructor and rose to the rank of Master Sergeant.

Famous 2nd flag raised at Iwa Jima
Famous 2nd flag raised at Iwa Jima

The museum provides a comprehensive history of all major battles, and the stories of the evolution of the Corp from its beginning in 1775 to present day.  It was a great complement to our visit to the National World War II Museum in New Orleans.

World War II National Monument with the Washington Monument
World War II National Monument with the Washington Monument

United State Holocaust Museum

On the day we toured the United State Holocaust Museum we were lucky to catch a lecture by one of the museum’s archivists regarding the ongoing coordinated efforts to research and return artwork looted by the Nazi’s during WWII, beginning with the works rescued by the international group of volunteers known as the “Monuments Men.”  The biggest challenge facing this effort was not the lack of record keeping by the Nazi’s, it was, and still is, the fact that those records were scattered among 18 different countries in the chaos immediately following Germany’s fall.  More recently, the verification of the authenticity of records has become more difficult due to advance forgery techniques.

White House West Wing

Outside of the Eisenhower Executive Office Building
Outside of the Eisenhower Executive Office Building

The highlight of our time in D.C. came on the last evening in the city. Our daughter, Lindsey, flew in from Austin for business and, along with my sister’s son and daughter-in-law, joined us for the evening.  Following a fabulous dinner at the Bombay Club, my nephew led us on a tour of the White House’s west wing.  The tour included peeks into the Oval Office, the Roosevelt Room where the President meets with cabinet members, and the Navy Mess where cabinet members, senior officials and commissioned officers eat lunch.

White House Press Room
White House Press Room

The familiar press room is the only indoor area where photos are allowed, and is much smaller than it appears to be on television.

West Wing of the White House
West Wing of the White House

Greenleaf on the Magothy

Blue Heron @  Greenleaf, MD
Blue Heron @ Greenleaf, MD

We ended the week at my sister’s and brother-in-law’s house near the Chesapeake Bay.  Their dock and beach area are perfect for bird watching and all possible water recreation activities.

Greenleaf, MD
Greenleaf, MD

Trey and Lindsey headed directly to check out the dock and in only a few minutes Trey was set up to fish.  Unlike the fish in North Carolina, the Maryland fish were very cooperative – Trey caught 28 small bass and one keeper-sized catfish.  He released each fish immediately, but as the smile on his face indicates, he had a fabulous time!

The Big Catch, Greenleaf, MD
The Big Catch, Greenleaf, MD

Lindsey happily and peacefully snoozed through all the excitement.

Sleepy Lindsey, Greenleaf, MD
Sleepy Lindsey, Greenleaf, MD

My brother-in-law arrived from California early on our last morning at Greenleaf, and despite only a couple of hours of sleep, he was up for kayaking with Trey and Lindsey…

Kayaking @ Greenleaf
Kayaking @ Greenleaf

and later, for a ride out into the rougher, and much busier, waters of the Chesapeake.

Chesapeake Bay, MD
Chesapeake Bay, MD

It was a lovely day, but the afternoon sun soon began bearing down on us and caused us to turn back to shore early.

Sleepy Lindsey on the Chesapeake
Sleepy Lindsey on the Chesapeake

Greenleaf is an incredibly special place to visit, and I can tell it will be a wonderful gathering place for my sister’s family for generations to come.

Osprey, Greenleaf MD
Osprey, Greenleaf MD

Asheville, North Carolina ~ June 9-16

With Austin’s zealous housing market, surging population and current questionable water supply, we realize that it may not be feasible for us to be able to return to the city we love and have called home for the last 26 years.

We’d heard good things of Asheville for some time, so scheduled an entire week there in order to be able to thoroughly check the area out and get a feel for the city as a potential place to settle once we decide to do so.

Blue Ridge Parkway crossing the road to where we stayed
Blue Ridge Parkway crossing the road to where we stayed

We quickly found out from locals that we are not the only couple considering Asheville as a future place to settle. The rumor is that President Obama has bought property and plans to move his family there upon leaving office. While newspaper reports state that the White House is denying such a purchase, the people of Asheville continue to think otherwise.

Asheville is definitely laid back, slower paced than Austin, and lacks the traffic issues.

Cat Asheville Cottage

We thoroughly enjoyed our time there, particularly the easy access to the seemingly infinite options of outdoor activities.

Just outside of Asheville

Just outside of Asheville

We stayed just outside of the city in an “eco” cottage located just off of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Country living for the week was a welcomed change after staying in the city centers of New Orleans and Atlanta. We awoke with the sun each morning and to the sounds of chickadees, woodpeckers and goats.

Baby Goat - Asheville
Baby Goat – Asheville

The easy pace of Asheville took hold of us immediately as our first full day was spent strolling through artists working studios in the city’s River Arts Districts and enjoying the funky culture and food of West Asheville, which was reminiscent of that of Austin’s South Congress 10-15 years ago.

Buddies, Asheville, NC
Buddies, Asheville, NC

However, the bulk of our time was spent enjoying the gorgeous landscapes, winding mountain roads, and some of the numerous hiking trails, rivers and lakes that surround Asheville.

Chimney Rock State Park

Located about 25 miles southeast of Asheville, this is a beautifully maintained state park that offers tremendous views of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Chimney Rock, NC
Chimney Rock, NC

We trekked the 491 steps to the top of the park’s namesake rock, followed by a short hike to Hickory Nut Falls.

Descent from Chimney Rock, NC
Descent from Chimney Rock, NC

The falls is featured in the movie, The Last of the Mohicans, which we have yet to see.

Hickory Nut Falls, Chimney Rock, NC
Hickory Nut Falls, Chimney Rock, NC

Lake Lure, NC

Just beyond Chimney Rock lies Lake Lure, a quaint to upscale community in a narrow valley on a southern inlet of the mountain lake of the same name.

View of Lake Lure from Chimney Rock
View of Lake Lure from Chimney Rock

We took time to walk the footpath along the waterfront, where we watched boats loaded with tourists head out to and in from the main part of the lake, chatted with locals fishing, and admired the lakefront houses.

Beach at Lake Lure, NC
Beach at Lake Lure, NC

Nantahala Gorge

The Nantahala offers some of the best rafting in the area and normally we would have partaken in such activity, but being less than three weeks since breaking my ankle, we instead opted to enjoy the river by train.

Rafters on the Nantahala, NC
Rafters on the Nantahala, NC

The Great Smoky Mountains Railroad departs from Bryson City, North Carolina, which is 68 miles west of Asheville.

Great Smoky Mountain Railroad
Great Smoky Mountain Railroad

We arrived in the city early with the intention of eating breakfast before catching the train.  Yelp offered reviews of several restaurants, but we choose the Everett Street Diner because of the local police cars and five Harley Davidsons that were parked outside its entrance.  Outside of New Orleans, it offered the best breakfast we’d had to date, and it was certainly the best price.

The 4 hour round trip train ride wound through narrow passages, crossing the Appalachian Trail and Lake Fontana (which is a dull murky green color due to the copper deposits at its bottom), and along the Nantahala River.

Lake Fontana, NC
Lake Fontana, NC

The river’s most challenging rapids are along the Nantahala Outdoor Center where the 2013 U.S. Olympic kayak freestyle team trained.

Nantahala Rapids
Nantahala Rapids

We also found it interesting that the water flows along this section of the Nantahala are slowed to a trickle each evening by an upstream dam.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park ~ Deep Creek

Trey spotted a national park sign as we were leaving Bryson City and decided to follow it.  Stumbling across the Deep Creek area of the park was a great addition to what was already a full day.

Deep Creek Section of Smoky Mountain Nat'l Park
Deep Creek Section of Smoky Mountain Nat’l Park

We followed two of the three trailheads accessible from the parking lot and leading to separate waterfalls.

Deep Creek, Smoky Mountains National Park
Deep Creek, Smoky Mountains National
Park

We also loved watching the tubers navigate through the creek’s rocks and currents and found ourselves wishing that we had our bicycles to further explore the parks paved pathways.  We did end up returning to the park with our bikes later in the week.

Blue Ridge Parkway

Upon finally leaving the Bryson City area, we decided to loop 10 miles out of our way to check out Cherokee, North Carolina, despite plans to visit it the coming weekend. It is the headquarters of the Eastern Band of Cherokees – the band of Cherokees that broke with the Cherokee Nation prior to removal (The Trail of Tears).

We simply drove through the city and made mental notes of places we wanted to visit on our return.  I had recalled that Cherokee was the western end of the Blue Ridge Parkway, the 469 limited access national park road that cuts through and along the top of the Blue Ridge range of the Appalachian Mountains from eastern North Carolina to northwestern Virginia.

View from the Blue Ridge Parkway
View from the Blue Ridge Parkway

Since a quick check on Google maps showed that returning to Asheville via the Blue Ridge Parkway would add only 16 miles to our trip, we decided to do such that and add to the day’s adventures.

Rain over the Blue Ridge Mountains
Rain over the Blue Ridge Mountains

Light rain started falling as we entered the parkway at milepost 469, and fell off and on at varying strengths throughout the three hour drive limiting the vistas, but not to the extent that we were not completely impressed and in awe of the surrounding beauty. However, the clouds that sat at higher elevations kept our eyes keenly focused on the only thing visible – the road’s stripes keeping us in our lane.

Despite the occasional nervousness of the drive we foraged through bypassing several opportunities to escape to the lower elevations of state and interstate highways, arriving safely back in Asheville as the sun set.

Fishing and Drawing on the French Broad River

The French Broad winds through and around Asheville and is dotted with “river parks” designated as fishing, swimming, and water craft areas.  Trey tried out his casting skills at two such parks but the fish were not biting those days.  I took advantage of the scenery and good weather to do some sketching – something I very much enjoyed in my much younger, and less scheduled, days.

Sketch of he Blue Ridge Parkway over the French Broad River
Sketch of he Blue Ridge Parkway over the French Broad River

Voices of the Cherokee Festival

We returned to Cherokee, North Carolina for the Eastern Band’s annual festival celebrating their heritage, stories, art and culture. We particularly enjoyed a story about the examples we set for our children in the way we care for aging parents, probably because it “hit close to home” for both of us.

Similar to Austin’s painted guitar sculptures, Cherokee has bears
Similar to Austin’s painted guitar sculptures, Cherokee has bears – (Sequoyah)

The story of why there is an Eastern Band of Cherokee is told at the museum and it describes how, after initially and legally avoiding the forced march west, the band persevered through continued removal efforts through various legal means and also by simply hiding in caves among the Smoky Mountains.

Food & Father’s Day

Like everywhere we’ve traveled and will visit, the Asheville area is not short of amazing local fare.  The Everett Street diner was relegated to second best breakfast since New Orleans on Father’s Day when, at the recommendation of a friend, we brunched at the Stoney Knob Café in Weaverville.

Our delightful server at Stoney Knob, Emily, elaborated on President Obama’s plans — she had heard that not only is he moving to Asheville, but that he also plans to follow his passion for craft beer by opening a brewery.

Mountain Trout, Genny's, Chimney Rock, NC
Mountain Trout, Genny’s, Chimney Rock, NC

We also enjoyed Tupelo Honey Café in Hendersonville, a streamside lunch at Genny’s Family Restaurant in Chimney Rock Village, and paninis and cherry pie at the West End Bakery in West Asheville.

Trey took some time on his own to play golf on Father’s day at a municipal course close to where we were staying.  He reported that the course is well laid out and a fun course with a challenging back 9, but he was particularly impressed with the price – a total of $64 for the green fee, clubs, a cart, 5 balls, a bag of tees, and a golf glove.

We thoroughly enjoyed our week in the Asheville area and left it with the feeling that it is a community that offers everything we think we’ll be seeking after our travels, with one notable exception — family.

Deep Creek, Smoky Mtn Nat'l Park
Deep Creek, Smoky Mtn Nat’l Park